Diary

August 31, 2004 - Tuesday

Office again in the morning. Then I met with Robert again in the afternoon to go to the gym. After the gym we were quite tired so we rested for a while watching the Warriors football warm up... Again.

Then we went to Akihabara. The same way as yesterday. Except that we almost missed the Awajicho station. It is too close to the Hongo San-Chome where we got on the subway.

We checked some electronic stores today. Robert was looking for a sound card to his PC at home, and a memory card for his MP3-player. And I was just window shopping.

We found a SD memory card for Robert's MP3-player. 256 MB for a few hundred SEK. I have no idea what they cost in Sweden, but at least they won't be cheaper than that I think.

Before we continued playing the arcade games we had to have a dinner. We were starving after the gym. We found a place in a basement that served Italian, Mexican, and Japanese food. What a mix, huh? I think the chef might have difficulties in making decisions. An alternative is that he or she has multiple personalities... One Italian, one Mexican, and one Japanese.

And probably he or she is Swedish. Because when we were leaving the restaurant we heard two Swedish songs. Not Swedish artists singing in English but Lisa Nilsson singing in Swedish, and then some unknown to us that also sang in Swedish. Strange.

We were encouraged by the Swedish music and had got the strength back from eating. So now nothing could stop us from going back to the arcade games we left yesterday. Actually, it was more Robert that left them because I did not play anything yesterday.

Robert found a game he liked and started playing. Suddenly his game was interrupted and he had to fight a new character. After a while we figured out that it was not the computer he was fighting but another person somewhere among all the arcade games.

I started to look around to find out who he was playing against. It took me almost no time at all - with my detective like brain - to detect who the guy was. Incredibly enough he was sitting on the other side the game and he was... Japanese.

Anyway, Robert gave him a good match... Well, four good matches. But lost all four of them. However, he got closer and closer. And this was his first try on this game so I think he managed quite well. The Japanese guy looked like he spent most of his time after office hours at this place playing the same game with the same character. You could tell by the enlarged thumb of his right hand - the button thumb - and the enlarged muscles of his left under arm - the yoke arm.

After the four game we got tired and returned home for some sleep. After all, there is a day tomorrow as well.

August 30, 2004 - Monday

Went to the office in the morning. In the afternoon Robert came by and we went to the gym together. It was hard work.

After the gym we watched some football practice on the turf field just outside of the gym. Tokyo University Warriors. Looked like it was the offense that was practicing.

We watched the warm up. The stretching. And then they started to practice the game plan. Mainly running so I got bored after a while and we continued to Akihabara - the electric town.

Actually we took the subway to Awajicho and then walked to Akihabara. It is only 5-10 minutes walk and perhaps 45 minutes by subway. Because by subway you have to continue all the way to Ginza station to change there and then go back on Hibiya line to Akihabara station.

It is better - if you come from the Ikebukuro direction on Marounochi line to exit at Awajicho. Take the A3 exit - I think - and just walk straight on the smaller roads. When you get about 100 meters away from the subway exit you will be able to see the big signs of the different stores in Akihabara, like LAOX.

Robert got stuck in one of the arcade games complexes. We spent about 1.5 hours here and then we had to go home. It was too short thought Robert so we decided to go back tomorrow with no time limit.

August 29, 2004 - Sunday

The day was dedicated to tea ceremony. We went to Mina-sensei to arrive around 2 pm. Then Mina-sensei maid us tea and I talked Robert through the different parts of the tea ceremony, like how to enter the room and take a seat, how to take Japanese sweets, and how drink the tea.

Then I made tea for Robert and Mina-sensei. A kind of exam of what I have learned until now in the tea ceremony class. I think I managed quite well, and Mina-sensei was polite enough to say that the tea tasted good.

After the tea ceremony we sat for a while and talked about the history of tea ceremony and about the tea room. Mina-sensei showed us the hole in the floor where the tea is made over charcoal in the wintertime. Now it is summer so it is made over an electric stove - but still looks beautiful and old - just to keep the room cooler.

Then we went back. First we made a stop in Shibuya to buy some things at a department store. Then we continued to Ebisu to have a dinner at Red Pepper. Robert had spotted a Subway shop so he did not eat as much as usually. Instead he saved some space for the sub that he bought on our way home.

August 28, 2004 - Saturday

After sleeping at home for the first time in a week we relaxed most of the day. Our minds starting to prepare for the big event of the day. Raiders meeting. Some Raiders fans were going to meet at Chie's place and watch the first game of the pre-season against San Francisco 49:ers.

We had delicious food that Chie had prepared. And watched the game that Raiders won. And talked. About the upcoming season and football in general. It was fun and we had a good time.

And besides... The football season is only one month away now. Exciting!

August 27, 2004 - Friday

Today was the last day our trip in Japan, we had to go back to Tokyo. But first we had a breakfast at the ryokan. Japanese style. Then we packed. Paid for our room. And went to the Shin-Osaka station.

At the Shin-Osaka station we locked our bags in a locker and went back to the Umeda station. There we walked around in the underground mall. We must have looked lost because after a while a 50 years old man came up to us and asked if he could help us. When we said that we were just looking around he made an apology for disturbing us and continued with his business.

What we wanted to do was to find the place we visited the first day in Osaka. We found it eventually. But first we found a new part of the mall. New for us that is. They had a manga book store there and Robert bought a book - Tough. He also found hokyto-no-ken (北斗の拳) or Fist of the North Star. A manga that is famous even outside of Japan.

When we got tired we sat down and had an ice cream at Sweden. Yes, there is an ice cream shop called Sweden in Japan. I don't know why. I think Sweden is not well-known for its ice cream. Perhaps it is because everybody thinks Sweden is a cold place.

Anyway, as everything else in Japan - well almost everything else - only the best is good enough. To eat ice cream in cones at Sweden the customers are offered cone holders. So that you don't need to hold the cones at all time. Just in case eating the ice cream gets to tiring. Put the cone in the cone holder and rest your arm.

Now we were so tired that we did not have the strength to go anywhere. So we just went to the station and sat there waiting for our train. It finally came... Actually several train came and went as we sat there. Most of them bound for Tokyo, but the one we had reserved seats for finally came.

After just about three ours ride we arrived at the Tokyo station. It felt quite good to be back in one way. Still there was many things we missed. We only saw a little bit of Japan. And could only experience some typical Japanese things like ryokan, Japanese style rooms, Japanese style breakfast, shrines, temples, and onsen - Japanese public bath. There are many more things still left to explore for another time.

August 26, 2004 - Thursday

First time during our trip we had a Japanese style breakfast. We had the breakfast at 7:45 so that we could catch the first ferry. We took the Captain Line ferry from the Bay area to the Universal Studio Port at 8:45. Just after 9 am - the opening of Universal Studio - we entered and was ready to rock and roll.

The first attraction we went to was the Terminator 2 3D. Mainly because of the attractions we wanted to ride it was closest to the entrance. Actually it was not really a ride but it was still really good. The synchronization between the real world and the movie was good, as was the 3D feeling. The waiting time was only ten minutes. Later we found out that it must have been because it was just after the opening.

Next was the Amazing Spiderman - the Ride. Compared to T2 it was quite a bit longer waiting time... 70 minutes. We endured, however. And was greatly rewarded. This was a great ride - a real ride, we were moving in every direction. The 3D was good. And the synchronization between the 3D movie and the real world was great. We could feel the heat as Doctor Octopus shot some fire at us, water splashed as Hydro-man came close, movements of our car as the monsters or the hero jumped onto it. It was worth the 70 minutes waiting...

Next we wanted to ride the Back to the Future. But it was 75 minutes waiting time and we were quite hungry. Instead we waited about 40 minutes for the Backdraft attraction. However, now afterwards we think the word attraction is wrong to describe the Backdraft. It was a waste of time to wait 40 minutes to see some fire inside a warehouse. Better to spend these minutes on Spiderman, T2, or as we later found out Back to the Future.

After the Backdraft we had a lunch at the KWBB - K something World's Best Burger. Well, they were good because we were so hungry but we both agreed that we have had better.

With new energy from the burgers we continued to explore the attractions of the Universal Studio. Back to the Future was next, after just 60 minutes waiting time. Almost nothing...

Then we continued to Jurassic Park. 70 minutes later we were seated in a boat to take us around the park. Most of the dinosaurs were not so exciting. More like riding the ghost house in Furuvik outside of Gävle. You who have been there know what I mean. The best part of the ride was at the end... The T-Rex almost - we were so lucky - caught us but we escaped by dropping very steep down a water fall. Then we hit the water below and got sprayed by... smelly water.

What to do next? We sat down on two surf boards arranged as a park bench. Strangely we were approached by several Japanese people. First was a group of children and a grown up - perhaps a school class. They wanted to take a photo together with us. Afterwards they thanked us.

Next was a group of perhaps 18 years old boys saying 'hello how are you?' and smiling. We started to feel that there was a sign above us saying make fun of these two foreigners. So we moved to another park bench. Then to another one just outside of Snoopy Studio.

It was too hot here so we continued to the E.T. Adventure Ride. Yepp this was going to be our last ride for the day. But Robert discovered he had lost his cellular phone. So we back tracked. Snoopy bench, middle bench strange bench, and Jurassic Park.

Here we asked the staff about a cellular phone. Waited for a while and then they came with it. We verified that it was ours by calling it from my cellular. It rang and that was it. After signing a few papers we got the cellular back.

Now we were too tired to ride any more attractions. We went back to the hotel instead. Had a dinner. Had a walk around in the Bay area, which had a giant ferry wheel - world's largest and shining green in the night. Visited the Sega house to play some arcade games. Then we went back to the hotel. Watched a van Dame movie dubbed to Japanese and went to bed.

August 25, 2004 - Wednesday

Today we had our last breakfast at the Uemura ryokan in Kyoto. We said goodbye to Mrs. Uemura and took a bus to the Kyoto station. There we got on a Shinkansen train to Osaka. It was a long ride... 15 minutes.

Arriving in Osaka we took the subway to the Osakako station. There we found our ryokan. Left our bags there and went to the Kaiyukan - Osaka Aquarium. It has the largest aquarium tank in the world in which the main attraction circles around and around - two enormous whale sharks.

There were a lot of other fishes as well. And dolphins, seals, spider crabs, and one ugly sunfish. I have no idea what was so special about this sunfish, but it was in a net within the tank. And you cold not use flashes - if you wanted to get a flash reflection in the glass. It was white, had big lips, and only two fins that was up and down from its body. And its mouth was alway open... It made it look quite stupid.

After the aquarium we went back to the ryokan to get our room. There we took a short rest before we took the subway back into the Osaka city - our ryokan was located in the bay area.

Getting of the subway at the Umeda station, and walking around in the underground complex. It was quite big and difficult to find the way. Robert found some t-shirts that he bought.

Then we wanted to find the Shin-Umeda city or the Umeda Sky Building. It was difficult but we managed to find it after a while. We bought tickets to get to the top to see the sunset.

The top of the building is 173 meters above Osaka city. And you can walk around on the roof to have a view of the whole Osaka area. Quite nice. And you got a way from all the people running around - it felt like it was more than in Tokyo and Tokyo is still several times bigger than Osaka - and no traffic noise.

After watching the sunset we took the elevator down. Got to the basement and watched the reconstruction of Showa-era streets, with a lot of restaurants. It looked a little bit like many of the streets we saw in Kyoto. Except in Kyoto there were no roof. Then we had a dinner and went back to our ryokan to sleep.

August 24, 2004 - Tuesday

Breakfast as usual and then getting ready to leave the ryokan for another day in Kyoto. We took a bus to Kyoto station... Or at least we thought the bus was going there. But it took us to another subway station. There a Japanese old man helped us by explaining how to get to our destination for the day - Kinkaku-ji temple, or the Golden pavilion temple.

First we took a subway and then a bus. After about one hours ride from the ryokan we were at the Kinkaku-ji temple.

The temple was built in 1397 as a retirement villa for Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu. It was converted into a Zen temple after his death, all according to his will. It is not such a big temple, but it is its golden upper parts that have made it famous and a world cultural heritage.

The golden pavilion is located beautifully in a garden with a lot of water. In the water are small islands with trees. It must have been a great place to retire. Now it was too many tourists here to be nice for retirement.

The current building was rebuilt since a monk burned the place down in 1950. Or at least that is what our guide book said.

After the temple visit we had a lunch and then we had a one and a half hours rest in a park. We waited for the Funaoka onsen to open at 3 pm. When it did we were one of the first to enter, but not the first. The wooden carvings in the dressing room was beautiful and looked really old. And they made a nice atmosphere as we dressed - or undressed - for the bath.

In Japanese onsen - public bath - you wash your self throughly with soap all over. Then rinse your self so that no soap remain. Then you are allowed to enter the different baths to soak in them. Soak, not swim. And the baths are usually hot, sometimes - as this onsen - they have different bath with different temperatures. From cold to hot, hot, hot..

We saw many old men here soaping, rinsing, soaping, shaving, rinsing... For a long time. Kind of a ritual. It seemed that a few visitors took longer time to make this ritual than the time they actually spent in the bath.

We mainly used the biggest pool, which were divided into three sections. One for just soaking, one for bubbles, and one for electric bath. Yeah, it sounds crazy but it was a current there that made your muscles contract and relax, contract and relax... I did not like it but Robert did.

We finished the bath by sitting in the cold bath. This was located outside. While we were sitting there it started to rain again - it has been raining a little bit every day we spent in Kyoto. This time it poured down.

We finished, dried, and sat outside the dressing room watching TV until the rain stopped. Then we went by bus back towards our ryokan.

Again we got on the wrong bus. But we were to tired after the onsen to care. We just decided to sit and wait until we got to the end station, which we thought was going to be close to a subway station. Suddenly we recognized where we were. Very close to our ryokan and the Gion area.

So we got of the bus and walked around among the Kawadoko restaurants along the Kamagawa river. It was many restaurants located here. Most was too expensive for Robert and me. But we were getting hungry so we finally find somewhere to have a dinner. As usual we were alone. At least until after a few minutes. When we had finished eating we realized that the restaurant was almost full.

Now it was time to go back to the ryokan. We walked back through the Gion area. When we got back to the ryokan we were greeted by the old lady managing the place. She came with sweets and tea again - as she have done every day. And our beds had been made.

That has been like magic all the time we stayed here. The beds have been made when we have been out of the room. Then when we have had breakfast the beds have been unmade. Unmade since we sleep on futons, so the futons have to be put away during the daytime. And as far as we know it is the old lady that does this while making us breakfast. Like magic.

August 23, 2004 - Monday

After waking up late today we had a breakfast in the dining room of the ryokan. We were served an American style breakfast with fried egg and bacon and toast. As a starter we got melon and apples. And tea and orange juice to drink.

Then we started to walk to one of the destinations today. The Chion-in temple. It was first built in 1234. A monk called Honen taught Jodo Buddhism here and fasted to death. Now one of the oldest buildings is dated back to the 17th century.

Before we reached the Chion-in we passed through the Maruyama-koen, a park that during spring time is very crowded. Kyoto people gather here to watch the cherry blossom.

In order to enter the Chion-in temple - when we finally got there - we entered through the biggest temple gate in Japan, the sen-mon gate. The gate was quite impressive, but the kiyomizu-dera was nicer and better located.

Next temple was the Nanzen-ji temple about two kilometers away. On our way there we stopped to have lunch. Robert had a beef stew with rice and I had a donburi with beef and vegetables. The set menu we ordered included some cream soup for Robert, miso soup for me, and tea for both of us.

The lunch brought the strength back to us and we were able to continue our walk.Passing along a small river we soon found the temple entrance. This temple site had a lot of running water and not so many visitors. It was built as a retirement villa for the Emperor Kameyama. After his death in 1291 it was dedicated as a Zen temple.

We walked around for a while looking for a looking for an aqueduct that would lead us to one of the smaller temples here, the Oku-no-in. The guide book told about a waterfall here and pilgrims standing in the waterfall even during wintertime. However, the gate we had to pass was closed so we assumed the temple was not open for visits.

After that I really had to go to the toilet. Well, that is nothing you want to brag about in diary that is open to read for anyone is it? But the only toilet available was a Japanese style toilet. A hole in the floor. I have a bad left knee that sometimes is painful. Using a Japanese toilet is painful I can tell.

Then we were ready to visit the Hojo. This was the abbot's quarter. Entering the Hojo we could have a look at the old wooden buildings connected with a wooden pathway covered with a roof. Quite as you could imagine it was in old Japan, I guess.

We also passed a Zen garden. I guess the monks used to sit on the verandas here meditating, or just relaxing after a hard day's work.

Many of the rooms we passed had beautiful paintings on the sliding doors. Unfortunately we were not allowed to take any pictures of the rooms. One of the last rooms we passed had tigers and panthers painted on the doors.

Then we returned to the entrance hall. And entered the tea room for some green tea while watching the waterfall outside in the garden. Quite relaxing in a tranquil environment.

This was the last temple for today. We headed back towards our ryokan and into the Gion area. Here we had read that we could see geishas and maikos on their way to appointments for the evening. Many streets here were really nice in an old style. Narrow streets. Japanese style wooden houses with small gardens. And lots of restaurants. Many of them too expensive to even think about entering.

We found a cheaper one. Robert wanted to eat something with rice. So we found a restaurant and had some. And miso soup. And some chicken and beef and pickles.

Then we went back to the ryokan. It had been a long day and we had been walking quite a lot, at least 15 km. We wanted to get our wet clothes of - yepp, it had been raining off and on the whole day because of a typhoon passing by - and take a shower and a bath.

Our plan was to watch Pride on the Fuji channel on TV after the shower and bath.We missed the beginning because we could not find it. I think we got the time wrong or maybe it was delayed. It did not matter so much because we had time to watch some Olympics instead, mainly Japanese competitors. But also that Holm got a gold in high jump and that Olsson got gold in triple jump.

August 22, 2004 - Sunday

Woke up and had an American breakfast with pancakes and syrup and sausages. We avoided the butter on the pancakes even though that is a necessity to make it American. But our American friend had some for us as well.

After the breakfast we said goodbye to the manager, Carl from Australia and Christopher from USA. Then we went to the train station. Our train departed Hiroshima station on time (9:46) and arrived on time in Kyoto (11:58).

At first we walked around the Kyoto station to find some place to eat. That was quite difficult and we decided to go back to the station. There we found a Pronto and had some pasta. It was not really enough so we bought some chicken BBQ and ate outside the station.

Not until then were we ready to go to our ryokan - Uemura. Bus 206 from platform D2 was supposed to take about 30 minutes but it took us to the Yasui bus stop much faster. We missed it and had to walk back from the next bus stop. Not a long distance and the weather was nice, though a bit humid.

It was quite easy to find the ryokan located on a narrow street about halfway between Chion-in and Kiomizu-dera temples. The houses and the streets here made you feel like you could bump in to a samurai any time. So we advanced carefully.

As we ding-donged the ryokan's 'bell' we were greeted by a dog and - I guess - his owner, who showed - the owner - us to our room. There we were served cold tea and Japanese sweets, sitting at the floor.

It was just past 3 pm when we were ready to go out again. Our destination was the Kiomizu-dera temple. Again we had the feeling of being just a corner away from bumping in to a samurai. The narrow streets paved with stones and sided by Japanese old style housing.

There were also many shops that sold local handicrafts and souvenirs. We walked past these shops. At one place we saw a geisha - or geiko as they are called in Kyoto. But actually we think it was a maiko - a geisha in training. Anyway, we asked if we could take a picture and we were welcome to do that. We thanked her and continued our walk and finally we came to the Kiomizu-dera temple.

The main hall of the temple was first built in 798 but has since then been reconstructed. The oldest dating from 1633. The temple is located on a hill side with a great view over Kyoto. Quite a tranquil area and the stress of a big city felt far away. We walked around the temple area for a while and then returned down to the same streets we used on our way to the temple.

As we were slowly walking back towards our ryokan we formed a plan to stop somewhere to have a dinner. However, our plan was disrupted by a heavy rain fall. And even though our landlady had given us two umbrellas we were soon soaking wet.

Instead of sitting soaking wet in an airconditioned restaurant we walked to Lawson's - a type of 7-Eleven - and bought some dinner that we brought back to the ryokan. Back at the ryokan we ate our dinner.

Back at the ryokan we felt even more like in a samurai movie when we took of our wet clothes and dressed in kimono style bathrobes. Then we took a shower and a bath. Watched some TV. Listened to the rain that continued to fall. And then we went to bed.

August 21, 2004 - Saturday

The day started with an American influenced breakfast. The manager cooked us a fruit salad, tea, French toast, and cereals with milk. We talk for a while with the other guests too. One from Australia (Carl) was here for the Hiroshima Animation Festival - five days of animation. And an American (Cristopher) who's family originally came from Sweden. He was in Hiroshima to start working.

After the breakfast we walked to the streetcar stop and caught a streetcar bound for Hiroden-Miyajima-guchi. Just 50 meters away from the ferry terminal to the Miyajima island. It took us about 45 minutes to get there by the streetcar and we got on a ferry at once and it took about 15 minutes. So an hour or so after we left our hotel we were in Miyajima.

Miyajima is a sacred island with a lot of temples (Buddhism) and shrines (Shinto). It has one of the three best sceneries in Japan, the red gate in the water. The red gate is the gate to the sacred island. You can see similar gates as you enter to the grounds of shrines around Japan too.

Besides the gate and shrines the island also has, as we soon discovered, a lot of deers. The deers followed anybody that was a potential feeder. That is, everybody. At one time Robert almost lost his plastic bag because two deers thought it looked yummy. Some people actually fed these animals and of course they were followed by up to 15 deers that wanted more.

Anyway, when we got closer to one of the biggest shrines on the island - in fact one of the biggest in Japan - we got a flyer announcing that today was the Tamatori festival (玉取祭). First a Shinto priest was supposed to make an offering to the shrine. Then some taiko drumming was supposed to happen, and finally some sacred wooden ball was supposed to be fought about in the water.

We waited for 50 minutes and nothing happened. Well, no priest was doing anything but the taiko drumming was 30 minutes early. So we listened to the drumming. Then we waited for the priest to show up so that the wooden ball game could start. After or 50 minutes wait we got tired and walked away.

We stopped at a small store to buy something to drink. Robert bought milk and bananas. The owner of the shop started talking about how big Robert was and wondered how tall he was. I told her and she was really friendly. I think because we was such nice boys and could communicate in simple Japanese we got an ice cream each... For free.

Eating the ice cream we walked to the cable car. Passing by the big shrine again. At this moment the priest was out doing something with the wooden ball. We had no idea what, and decided to continue without watching the game - usually games are no fun to watch when you don't know the rules.

Ten minutes later we arrived at the cable car and started our ride up towards the top of the mountain. After a brief stop and change of cable car we continued towards the anther top. At this top monkeys can be seen. But when we arrived they had just left a message on a message board that they were off eating somewhere in the forest. Unlucky us.

Instead we walked to the next top, Mt. Misen. Before we reached the top about a kilometer away we passed a shrine were there where a kettle of tea over an open fire. The fire has been constantly burning since 600 years ago.

Our walk continued all the way up to the top of Mt. Misen, some 529 meters above sea level. Boy were we sweaty? Not so tired... Yet, but sweaty.

After a short break we started to walk down. We walked through the forest with the monkeys eating. Or so they wrote on the message board but we never saw them. We could still hear the noise of a big forest, especially the big insect that I told you about two weeks ago or so.

The trail followed was quite steep and followed a small river most of the way. Some parts were like a dirt road but most parts were stone stairs made - I guess - by the monks here.

Back at the sea level we took the ferry back to the mainland. Then the JR train back to Hiroshima. From the Hiroshima train station we took a streetcar to get to the Hiroshima Manga Library and the Manga museum. Or so it said in the guide book. But when we got there it turned out to be an ordinary - well, manga ordinary - library.

So we headed back towards our hotel. Stopping at a Japanese restaurant to have something to eat - sashimi, fried chicken, medium rare beef (sashimi like), green tea, rice, and a miso soup with clams. Yummy.

With our stomachs full we headed back towards the hotel again. This time we made a brief stop at a manga store. Robert bought a several hundred pages thick manga - which we later found out was totally incomprehensible. Then, walking back through the Peace Memorial Park we finally got back to the hotel. Took a shower. Watched some A-Bomd video. And then we went to bed.

August 20, 2004 - Friday

Woke up early today. Robert and I was leaving Tokyo to go to Hiroshima. First thing was to take a train to Tokyo station. Just to get on the Shinkansen or bullet train. Our Shinkansen was the Hikari class. Not the fastest there is but fast.

The trip from Tokyo (東京) to Hiroshima (広島) took about five hours, including a change of train in Okayama (岡山). When we got to Hiroshima, about the first thing we did was find a place to eat lunch.

Then went to our ryokan - Japanese style hotel. Actually, it was not a real ryokan even though they had Japanese style rooms - tatami mats and futon. The hotel was the World Friendship Center and is a non profit organization that contributes in various ways to make the world a more peaceful place.

Getting there is well described on their web-page, if you use a streetcar (tram). We did. And it was slow, slow, slow. But quite nice.

At the ryokan we checked in and the room we got was nice and clean and the staff friendly. The manager - an American and his wife - was not there when we arrived, but we met him later in the night. Then he told us about the A-Bomb and surviving people and places to visit.

It is recommended - if you want to visit Hiroshima and see the A-Bomb museum - to stay at this hotel. Stay a few days and use the first day to talk with the manager about where to go and what to see. If you want to meet with a survivor just ask in advance and the manager can arrange that. Several survivors are members of the board of the World Friendship Center.

Anyway, these things we did not know when we set of from the hotel around 2 pm. So we went to the Peace Memorial Park without this data in mind. After a while we managed to find our way to the park and the museum there.

First we entered the museum. It had a route to follow, starting with an introduction, then the history leading to the drop of the bomb, and some terrifying pictures and information of the result of the bombing.

59 years and 14 days ago today - August 6, 1945 - on a sunny morning at 8:15 Hiroshima became part of the history forever. Enola Gay - the name of the American aircraft - dropped the first atomic bomb - Little Boy - ever used in war. Its target was a T-shaped bridge over one of many rivers in Hiroshima.

The bomb exploded 570 meters above the ground. The heat inside the explosion was around 2.5 million - yepp, 2.5 and five zeros - degrees. The surface of the fireball that developed was about 3000 degrees as it swept over Hiroshima.

The blast, the heat, and the radiation destroyed 90 percent of the buildings within 3 km radius of the hypocenter and several thousands of human lives. At the end of the year more than 140000 humans had lost their lives. Even ten years later people still died in diseases caused by the bomb, such as leukemia.

It was quite terrible to see pictures of burned people and the models of Hiroshima before and after the bomb. Before the bomb the city was full of houses and after the bomb it was totally flat, except a few concrete constructions like the A-Bomb Dome. Then trying to imagine this when walking around outside the museum; everywhere we walked and looked and saw buildings, 59 years ago there was nothing here but burned ground. And people just starting to rebuild the city.

After the memorial park we continued walking around in Hiroshima for a while. Then we got hungry and found a Chinese restaurant. The dishes looked nice on the menu outside the restaurant so we went in. First rule of going out to eat? Do not go to an empty restaurant!!! So we broke that rule. And lucky us, because it was quite tasty.

With our stomaches full we slowly walked back to our ryokan. Only stopping at a manga shop to check out some books. And at a Lawson to buy some water and milk.

Back at the ryokan we met the manager... But I already wrote about that. The only thing left to tell you now is... Good night.

August 19, 2004 - Thursday

Office in the morning and then lunch with Robert at Todai. After the lunch we went to the gym.

Then we continued to Ginza where Robert withdrew some money from Citibank. One of the few places - it seems - where you can withdraw money with foreign issued credit cards. Banking is in some aspects not as developed here as in Sweden.

After Robert got the money we continued to meet Chie at Kamiyachio. We went back home and packed for our trip tomorrow. And then we had dinner at Misoichi. Ramen, noodles - this time - in miso based soup. Yummy.

August 18, 2004 - Wednesday

Unfortunately I could not do anything with Robert today because I went to Nagoya for a project meeting. Actually it was about 30 minutes from Nagoya station so it was just outside of Nagoya. At a machine-tool manufacturer called Mazak.

The meeting was fruitful for me. I finally think I understand what the other partners of the project are doing. I had actually misinterpreted their paper where they describe what they are doing. Their work is a little bit more simple than a thought.

Anyway, I went there with professor Kimura in the morning. Going from Tokyo station by Nozomi Shinkansen - the highest class bullet train. It took us about 2 hours before we smoothly arrived in Nagoya, about 300 km away from Tokyo.

The meeting took all day and I arrived back in Tokyo around 8:30. Back home again I watched some TV with Robert and got updated on what he had been doing all day.

He had been a lot on the subway going from place to place to check what it was. Then a lot of walking too, since he had to walk around in the different places. Especially he walked a lot in Roppongi - mainly because he got lost. He also visited Roppongi hills.

After watching TV we went to bed. both tired after a long day.

August 17, 2004 - Tuesday

Robert and I went to Tsukiji fish market in the morning. It is one -if not the - biggest fish markets in the world. I cannot really remember how many tons of fish that pass by here every day, but it is a lot.

We walked around the fish market and looked at all the different kinds of fish, shells, and... Well, some things were quite difficult to classify. Let's just say they were some kind of sea animals.

After we got tired of walking around and watching fish we thought of eating them instead. We had a sushi breakfast at Daiwasusi. The same restaurant I visited a while ago. It s within the fish market and it is known by Japanese people to be among the best sushi restaurants within the fish market.

In difference from the last time Robert and I were not seated in front of the owner, but in front of his son. We had aji, sama, kohada, chutoro, and otoro sushi. And of course we had miso soup and green tea. Well, Robert had some water. It was delicious.

Maybe Robert did not like it as much as I did. But he enjoyed the kohada... One of the cheapest fishes you can find. And that is fine by me.

After the visit to the fish market we went to a temple just at the Tsukiji subway station. It was not a long visit but just to see what it was. Then we continued to Ginza for a brief stop. Just killing time until the gym at Todai opened.

After the gym I went to the office and Robert went back home. Stopping in Naka-Meguro and walked around there for a while.

In the evening we had pizza delivered and we watched Spiderman. What else can you ask for?

August 16, 2004 - Monday

I went to the office in the morning today. Worked for a while. Had lunch, and then met with Robert to go to the gym together.

After the gym we went to Awajicho to check out some sports stores. This is the area with a lot of big and small sports stores. Various kinds of sports. Snowboarding, surfing, trekking, soccer, baseball, weight lifting, and much more.

We found a shop for weight lifting and Robert checked some protein powder. It was quite difficult to try to ask what they contained and which one that he should buy. But we managed... At least to make out the total content of protein and carbohydrates.

We also manage to find out which of all the similar brands that the staff liked the best. It was a chocolate flavored one from DNS.

I bought a pair of underwear from X Armor that I had been looking for. And an energy bar with peanut caramel flavor. It tasted like... Well, let's put it like this, it was dry and not really eatable.

On our way home we passed some vending machines in Naka-Meguro. Well, we always do that, but this time we took some photos of them. These type of vending machines are all over Tokyo - and Japan I guess. Almost in every corner. They usually contain cigarettes or different drinks. But can contain almost anything. I have heard about flowers, alcohol beverages, and rice. Next to Chie's appartment there is a golf shop that has a vending machine outside with golf balls and other stuff for a golfer in need.

At home we had a dinner. Paprika chicken. Then we watched some TV before going to bed. Tomorrow will be an early rise to go to the Tsukiji fish market.

August 15, 2004 - Sunday

Today we went to Harajuku and Smile Town. Smile Town is a street with shops full of cheap things that teenagers really wants. The average age here is a few years lower than in Shibuya. If they are around 18 in Shibuya most are around 13 or 15 here in Smile Town.

We passed through it looking in the shops. And then continued into another area which was visited by a more adult crowed. Here most people were around 18-20. The brand were more expensive and not so many people. We found a Nike shop that was full of... nothing. White walls, maybe 8 pair of shoes on display, and no more than 30 training clothes such as t-shirts and jackets. I wonder how they can survive?

Then we continued to a big street with a lot of expensive store like Armani, Luis Vitton and such brands. They crowed here was again older. We walked, looking for a 7-Eleven or similar. We needed a drink and a rest. We found an AM-PM store just after passing a shrine. Bought our drinks and sat down on a back street.

This time we had learned our lesson and sat on some benches while eating peanuts and drinking amino drinks - Robert's new favorite is an orange colored Amino Supli drink.

After the rest we continued walking. And walking. We passed a Gold's Gym. A famous gym from the early area of body building. We went in side to find out if we could use it. In the elevator we got company of a 2.25 meter tall black American that was almost as wide as he was tall. Unfortunately we could not use the gym unless we paid a two months membership.

So we continued walking instead. Until we needed a bathroom pretty badly. We really needed to powder our noses. We found a Starbuck's. While Robert went about powdering his nose I bought a hot cup of chocolate.

Then we continued walking some more. And suddenly we were back in Shibuya. Of course we went back to Robert's favorite store and he bought another PS2 game and a PS2 game controller - about half the price in Sweden.

For dinner we had Chinese food. And after dinner we played the new PS2 game. How fun is it to get beaten by your little brother all the time in some PS2 street fighting game? Must be something wrong on my controller. Robert used the new one so it is probably that.

August 14, 2004 - Saturday

After breakfast Robert and I went to Shibuya. We wanted to see all the people in Shibuya. Especially on school holiday, and weekend day. And we were not disappointed. There were a lot of people there. All kinds. All sizes. All colors... Of make-up.

We walked around in Shibuya for several hours. Just watching people and checking the different shops there. I think Robert found a favorite shop. A DVD and game shop. He found so many cheap PS2 games there and even bought one too.

Then we had a break. Eating a sandwich and drinking some amino drink on a back street. Some old Japanese man passed by and looked at us as if we were crazy. Probably not a good thing to sit beside a some garbage can eating a sandwich, but what can you do when all the cafes are full with teenagers on holiday?

During the dinner we was disturbed by some big fireworks. The best spot for watching it is Rainbow bridge they say. But 12th floor in Meguro is quite a good place too. We had a great view and after a while we got back to dinner.

Besides the fireworks continued for one and a half hour. More than 15000 fire works was used they said. Quite a lot. And in different shapes too. Hearts, balls, smiling faces, and more. Quite amazing.

August 13, 2004 - Friday

Woke up about the same time as if going to the office this morning. Just a little bit of a sleep in. Then I went to the Meguro station and took a train to Tokyo station. There I changed to Narita Express to go to Narita Airport and pick up Robert.

At Narita Airport I found out that Robert's flight was early and he was already out of the customs and waiting for me. So we took the Narita Express back to Tokyo, and finally got back home to relax for a while before we went back out.

We went to Ginza and walk around. Checking some stores and had a small lunch at Wendy's, and checked some more stores. Then we went to Hiro-o to buy some oat meal for Robert. And then back to Naka-Meguro. And dinner with Chie at the Yasaka.

After a long trip and no sleep Robert dropped dead in his bed as soon as we got back from Yasaka.

August 12, 2004 - Thursday

I prepared some slides for my trip to Nagoya next week, and the meeting at Mazak. It took almost the whole day. At lunch I went to the Awajicho station and bought a map for trekking. I have a plan to go on a weekend in a few weeks or so.

August 11, 2004 - Wednesday

Another day passed by and not much happened. I had a meeting with my supervisor about the progress of my research. It went well and I got some good inputs.

I also got some information about a trip I have to do next Wednesday. We have a project meeting at Mazak outside of Nagoya. I have to go there even though my brother Robert is here, but I think he can manage by himself here in Tokyo during the day.

August 10, 2004 - Tuesday

Ooooh, so many things did not happen today so I don't even know where to start. First, nobody came up to me and gave me a billion yen (十億円) for instance. And I was not caught in the middle of a yakuza settlement, where they solved some dispute with samurai swords. Noop, nothing of that and many other things did not happen to me today so it was quite a boring day.

Except until I got back home. Then I had a great dinner with lovely company.

August 9, 2004 - Monday

Not much happened to me today. But west of Tokyo in Mihama they had a nuclear power plant accident today. There seems to have been some kind of leak in the turbine hall. Steam leaked as a pipe or vent broke. No radiation as far as they know. But four people got killed from the steam and several severe injuries.

Many Japanese people were planning to go to Mihama since it is popular for vacation. And it is a popular beach area. However, now many people have already canceled their trip to Mihama because of the accident. Even though no radiation have leaked and there is no more threat to the outside of the power plant than before. But I guess people are afraid of nuclear power.

The last years the Japanese nuclear power program has had some scandals. Some accidents due to poor education of workers a few years back. And recently one of the nuclear power companies admitted to have cheated with their reports for as much as ten years. As a result the Japanese people have a decreased trust and confidence in nuclear power.

August 8, 2004 - Sunday

Beach day. Got up early and went to the beach. The traffic was much less today than the last time. We arrived at the beach almost an hour earlier than the last time.

It had been cloudy when Chie and I left Tokyo but as we arrived at the beach the clouds disappeared and it was a blue sky the rest of the day. And windy so it was not too hot. Just perfect temperature to be lazy and reading a book or watching people.

There are some utterly strange people in the world. One family - probably from Portugal or Brazil - sat down about two millimeter from us. There were football fields after football fields of free space at the beach. And they sat down next too us, almost on top of us actually.

I think because it was a tree next to us. About 1.5 meters from us. This family wanted the shadow so they squeezed in between us and the tree. Drank a lot of beer and talked loudly. As the earth turned they moved with the shadow.

Finally, they could not sit down because the space was not enough. Then they stood behind the tree. It looked quite funny. Like they were hiding in a hide and seek game.

August 7, 2004 - Saturday

In the morning I helped Chie cleaning out the cupboards in the kitchen. She had bought new ones and they were delivered today. Unfortunately one of them were damaged so it was taken back. So we could not finish it as we wanted.

However, the new cupboard that was not damaged was set up and we put cups, glasses, and plates in it. The rest of the things were put back into the one of the old cupboards, which will be changed as soon as the damaged cupboard is replaced.

After that we rearranged the living room to fit an extra bed in. This is for Robert who is arriving on Firday. It turned out quite well.

August 6, 2004 - Friday

Woke up in the middle of the night by someone shaking the bed. It was mother earth. Quite a big one and of the bad type. The good one - if you can call an earthquake good - is side to side, but tonight was up and down. It lasted for a few seconds and then my eyes closed and I fell back to sleep.

August 5, 2004 - Thursday

It's a Thursday again and nothing special happened.

August 4, 2004 - Wednesday

After work today I went with Chie and Mina-san to the Butaya (ぶた家) in Ebisu. The Butaya is a restaurant that serves only pork. Of course they serve vegetable also but the meat is only pork. That's why the buta in Butaya. Buta means pork in Japanese and ya with this kanji means house or home. So literally it Butaya means pork house (or pork home).

We had various kinds of pork. Long. Thin. Fat. Fried. Boiled. And I don't know what more. But all of it was delicious. And cheap. So if you are in the Eisu area and like pork, then drop by here and have some.

Monday to Saturday they open at 6 pm and close at 11:30 pm. Sundays they close an hour earlier. Lunch between 11:30 am and 2 pm, Monday to Saturday. It seems like you can make a reservation but we were too late. Still they had tables when we went there just before 6 pm.

Phone: 03-3463-2554

Fax: 03-3463-2556

URL: http://www.butaya.co.jp

August 3, 2004 - Tuesday

Not much happened. I bought a train ticket to Narita Airport for next Friday. One of my brothers are coming for a visit then. It is the big holiday season here and I was told it was good to buy the ticket in advance. So I did.

Had a meeting in the afternoon, but nothing special. Then after the meeting I went back home. Had a dinner. And watch a soccer game. Asian Cup. Japan versus Bahrain. It was a crazy game. The referee was lousy.

Bahrain scored early. 1-0. Then after a while one Japanese player got a red card because a Bahrain player was rolling around on the grass in pain pretending that the Japanese player had hit him in the face. OK, he tried to grab him by the shoulder but not even close to a red card. At most a free kick.

So Japan played most of the game with 10 players. But was the better team any way. In the second half they scored two goals in the first 10 minutes. 2-1 for Japan. Then Bahrain came back and scored. 2-2.

Then the referee probably felt guilty after reviewing the red card accident in the break. So he gave a Bahrain player a red card. It was closer to a red card than the Japanese player. But at most a yellow card. He pushed the Japanese player in the face with an open hand. It looked like he tried to push away from him on the chest and accidently hit the face.

When it was less than 5 minutes left Bahrain scored again. 3-2 to Bahrain. Japan had lost... Or at least that was what everybody thought. An strong offensive rush in the last 4 minutes and dive of a Japanese player. He hit the ball with his head and... GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOAL! 2x15 minutes extended play. Japan scored a goal in the first 5 minutes of the first half of the extension.

Then it was great chances for both teams. But Japan managed to keep the ball out of their own goal. Japan won the game 4-3. On Saturday they play the final of the Asian Cup.

Oh, by the way... When they played the Japanese national anthem at the stadium before the game there were no Japanese flag. But Bahrain had one. A great scandal, especially since you consider that the game was held in an area which Japan once occupied. A kind of a protest for that maybe, but that is history and politics. This is sports and now... Well, actually... Now, when you read this, it is history and sports.

And who would have thought of not having the German flag in Euro Cup in France a couple of years ago just because they had conflict some years ago - the world wars. Politics and sports are like hot oil and cold water... It should not be mixed (とおもいます).

August 2, 2004 - Monday

Back at the office again... What a relief. Kidding!!!

In the evening I made chocolate ice cream. It was delicious. One of the best I have ever tasted. Or maybe I am subjective???

August 1, 2004 - Sunday

The kind of unstable weather that has been over Tokyo for the last days was gone today. The typhoon had passed. I spent some time in the garden in Tokorozawa. Just laying there and reading. It was nice. Not too hot. It was windy and sometimes the sun went in to a cloud and it got almost cool for a while.

In the afternoon I made some gyoza - dumplings, a crescent saped pan-fried thing stuffed with meat and vegetables. We had it for dinner with some other Chinese food like spicy shrimp and some fried pork and vegetables.

After the dinner we watched some Tokyo team play against Real Madrid. It was fun watching so many of the worlds best players, Zidane, Beckham, Ronaldo,

Figo, Roberto Carlos, Raul... When we had to go back to Tokyo it was just the beginning of the second half and it was 2 for Real Madrid and nothing for the Tokyo team.

The traffic was quite different from yesterday. We made it home in 50 minutes.